At times beautiful and beguiling, at times chaotic and charm less, Phnom Penh is a crossroad of Asia’s past and present, a city of extremes of poverty and excess, but one that never fails to captivate the visitor. Phnom Penh cityis a capital of Cambodia, Kingdom of Wonder!, at the confluence of the Mekong and Tonle Sap rivers. Phnom Penh was founded in the 14th century and was made the Khmer capital after the abandonment of Angkor. It became the capital of Cambodia in 1867. The city was occupied by the Japanese in World War II. The cultural and commercial centre as well as political capital of Cambodia, it was severely stressed and battered by the civil war in the 1970s. By the time the Khmer Rouge was overthrown in 1979, the city had become virtually a ghost town, with no more than 50,000 residents and its universities and cultural institutions no longer in operation. It gradually revived through the 1980s; Phnom Penh University reopened in 1988. Phnom Penh is now one of the charming city in Southeast Asia and repeatedly growing.
Phnom Penh sits at the confluence of the Mekong, Tonle Bassac and Tonle Sap rivers. Long considered the loveliest of the French-built cities of Indochina, its charm, while tarnished, has largely managed to survive the violence of its recent history and the current crop f property speculators.
Most of Phnom Penh’s tourist attractions are low-key, which means that many travelers spend only a short time here. This a pity; Phnom Penh is a city that is rediscovering itself and, after the obligatory sightseeing circuit is completed, a fascinating place to take in at leisure. The French left a legacy of now-crumbing colonial architecture, some of which is being tastefully renovated; the Wats (Buddhist temple-monasteries) have come back to life with a passion – monk in saffron robes can be seen wandering around carrying aims bowls; and there are great restaurants all over the city, an ideal warm-up for the lively nightshift.
The riverfront area in Phnom Penh is undoubtedly one of the most splendid in Asia, lined with swaying palms and billowing flags, the mightiest river in Asia, the Mekong, converging ans diverging as a backdrop. After many years of neglect, Phnom Penh at last seems to be the move and, if it can learn from the mistakes of its larger neighbours, it could once again become the ‘Pearl of Asia’.
Wat Phnom, Phnom Penh City Wat Phnom, or "Hill Temple," is built upon an artificial hill about 100' high. It is here that the city of Phnom Penh was founded in 1373. Shrines and other buildings have been put up and restored several times since then, the last major restoration taking place in 1926. The main entrance, shown here, is guarded by modern statues that depict dvarapalas chinthes, and nagas. Wat Phnom is a standard Southeast Asian Wat, with a bell-shaped chedi and Naga snakes decorating the corners of the roof. Inside are bright modern murals that just about glow in the dark, depicting the lives of the Buddha and other stories. The central ceiling has not yet been restored and retains its original aging murals. Young salesmen near the temple like to sell tourists the chance to earn some Buddhist merit by releasing a caged bird. Customers who hang around long enough will get to see the bird returning to its cage shortly thereafter.
Independent Monument, Phnom Penh City The Independent Monument which was built in 1955 following the country's independence from France It stands on the intersection of Norodom Boulevard and Sihanouk Boulevard in the centre of the city. During national celebrations - most notably, Independence Day -- the monument is the center of activity. Independence Monument sybolizes Cambodian Independence regained from French colonialism in 1953. This monument is a copy of Bakong temple, which is in the group of Roluos in Siem Reap in 9th century. The one hundred Naga and snake motif can be seen in historical, cultural, archeological, and business contexts.
Royal Palace, Phnom Penh City
Royal Palace is a striking structure near the riverfront, bearing a remarkable likeness to its counterpart in Bangkok, it stands on the site of the former citadel, Banteay Kev, and looks out on to Samdech Sothearos Blvd between Ph 184 and Ph 240. Chan Chaya Pavilion is a performance of classical Cambodian dance were once staged in the Chan Chaya Pavilion, through which guests enter the grounds of the Royal Palace. Throne Hall is topped by a 59m-high tower inspired by the Bayon at Angkor, was inaugurated in 1919 by King Sisowath; the present cement building replaces a vast wooden structure that was built on this site 1869. The Throne Hall was used for coronations and ceremonies such as the presentation of credentials by diplomats. Many of the items once displayed here were destroyed by the Khmer Rouge.
In the courtyard is a curious Iron house given to King Norodom by Napoleon III of France. Silver Pagoda, so named because the floor is covered with over 5000 silver tiles weighing 1kg each, is also known as Wat Preah Keo (Pagoda of the Emerald Buddha). It was constructed of wood in 1892 during the rule of King Norodom, who was appearently inspired by Bangkok’s Wat Phra Keo, and was rebuilt in 1962.
The Silver Pagoda was preserved by the Khmer Rouge to demonstrate to the outside world its concern for the conservation of Cambodia’s cultural riches. Although some 60% of the pagoda’s contents were destroyed under Pol Pot, what remains is spectacular. This is one of the few places in Cambodia where objects embodying some of the brilliance and richness of Khmer civilization can still be seen.
The staircase leading to the Silver Pagoda is made of Italian marble. Inside, the Emeral Buddha, said to be made of Baccarat crystal, sits on a gilt pedestal high atop the dais. In front of the dais stands a life-size gold Buddha decorated with 9584 diamonds, the largest of which weighs 25 carats. Created in the palace workshops during 1906 and 1907, the gold Budha weighs in at 90kg. directly in front of it, in a Formica case, is a miniature silver-and-gold stupa containing a relic of Buddha brought from Sri Lanka. To the left is an 80kg bronze Buddha, and to the right a silver Buddha. On the far right, figurines of solid gold tell the story of the Buddha.
Behind the dais is a standing marble Buddha from Myanmar (Burma) and a bed used by the king on coronation day; designed to be carried by 12 men, its gold work alone weighs 23kg. To either side are silver models of King Norodom’s stupa and Wat Preah keo’s library. At the back of the hall is a case containing two gold Buddhas, each decorated with diamonds weighing up to 16 carats; the lower figure weighs 4.5kg the upper 1.5kg.
Along the walls of the pagoda are examples o extraordinary Khmer artisanship, including bejeweled masks used in classical dance and dozens of solid and hollow gold Buddhas. The many precious gifts given to Cambodia’s monarchs by foreign heads of state appear rather spiritless when displayed next to such diverse and exuberant Khmer art. The epic of the Ramayana (known as the Reamker in Cambodia) is depicted on a beautiful and extensive mural enclosing the pagoda compound, created around 1900; the story begins just south of the east gate. Other structures in the complex (listed clockwise from the north gate) include the mondap (library), which housed richly illuminated sacred texts that are written on palm leaves; the shrine of King Norodom; an equestrian statue of King Norodom; the shrine of King Ang Duong; a pavilion housing a huge footprint of Buddha; Phnom Mondap, an artificial hill with a structure containing a bronze footprint of the Buddha from Sri Lanka; a shrine dedicated to one of Prince Sihanouk’s daughters; a pavilion for celebrations held by the royal family; the shrine of Prince Sihanouk’s father, King Norodom Suramarit, and a bell tower, whose bell is rung to order the gates to be opened or closed.
National Museum, Phnom Penh City The national Museum of Cambodia is home to the world’s finest collection of Khmer sculpture. Located just north of the Royal Palace, the museum is housed in a graceful terra-cotta structure of traditional design (built 1917 – 1920), with a lush courtyards, facing garden providing the perfect backdrop to an outstanding array of delicate objects.
The museum comprises four courtyards, facing a garden. The most significant displays of sculpture are in the courtyards to the left and straight ahead of the entrance. Some highlights include the right-armed statue of Vishnu from the 6th or 7th century AD, the statue of Shiva (866 – 877) and the sublime statue of Jaya Varman VII seated (C 1181 – 1218), his head bowed slightly on a meditative pose. The museum also contains displays of pottery and bronzes dating from the pre-Angkorian periods of Funan and Chenla (4th to 9th centuries), the Indravarman period (9th and 10th centuries), the classical Angkorian period (10th to 14th centuries) as well as more recent works. There is a permanent collection of post-Angkorian Buddhas, many of which were rescue from Angkor Wat when the civil war erupted.Unfortunately, photography is prohibited inside the museum. The Royal University of Arts has its headquarters in a structure behind the main National Museum buiding.
Tuol Sleng Museum, Phnom Penh City In 1975 Tuol Svay Prey High School was taken over by Pol Pot’s security forces and turned into a prison known as Security Prison 21 (S-21). This soon became the largest center of detention and torture in the country. Between the years 1975 and 1978 more than 17,000 people held at S-21 were taken to the extermination camp at Choeung Ek.S-21 has been turned into the Tuol Sleng Museum, which serves as a testament to the crimes of the Khmer Rouge. It is usually possible to visit any time of days, despite the official opening hours.
Like the Nazis, the Khmer Rouge was meticulous in keeping records of its barbarism. Each prisoner who passed through S-21 was photographed, sometimes before and after torture. The museum displays include room after room of harrowing black and white photographs; virtually all of the men, women and children pictured were later killed. You can tell which year a picture was taken by the style of number-board that appears on the prisoner’s chest. Several foreigners from Australia, France and the USA were also held at S-21 before being murdered.
Their documents are on display.
As the Khmer Rouge ‘Revolution’ reached ever greater heights of insanity, it began devouring it own. Generations of tortures and executioners who worked here were in turn killed by those who took their places. During early 1977, when the party purges of Eastern Zone cadres were getting underway, S-21 claimed an average of 100 victims a day.
When the Vietnamese army liberated Phnom Penh in early 1979, there were only seven prisoners alive at S-21, all of whom has used their skills such as painting or photography to stay alive. Fourteen others had been tortured to death as Vietnamese forces were closing in on the city. Photographs of their gruesome deaths are on display in the rooms where their decomposing corpses were found. Their graves are nearby in the courtyard.
Altogether, a visit to Tuol Sleng is a profoundly depressing experience. The sheer ordinariness of the place makes it even more horrific: the suburban setting, the plain school buildings, the grassy playing area where the children kick around balls, rusted beds, instruments of torture and wall after wall of disturbing portraits conjure up images of humanity at its worst. It demonstrates the darkest side of the human spirit that lurks within us all. Tuol Sleng is not for the squeamish.
Killing Filed of Choeung Ek, Phnom Penh City Between 1975 and 1978 about 17,000 men, women, children and infants who had been detained and tortures at S-21 were transported to the extermination camp of Choeung Ek. They were often bludgeoned to death to avoid wasting precious bullets.
The remains of 8985 people, many of whom were bound and blindfolded were exhumed in 1980 from mass graves in this one-time longan orchard; 43 of the 129 communal graves here have been left untouched. Fragments of human bone and bits of cloth are scattered around the disinterred pits. More than 8000 skulls, arranged by sex and age, are visible behind the clear glass panels of the Memorial Stupa, which was erected in 1988. It is a peaceful place today, masking the horrors that unfolded here less than three decades ago.
Phsa Thom Thmei, Phnom Penh City
The vibrant capital is filled with far more color and culture, and some of the best places to witness the unmatched charm of the city are at its traditional markets. There should be plenty of time to go shopping at many markets. Phsa Thom Thmei "The New Market" erected in Art Deco in 1930 is a Phnom Penh landmark. its central yellow dome sprouting four wings is chockfull of stalls selling clothing, shoes, bags, cosmetics, stationary, and sovenirs. it is a good place for seeking a large selection of Buddha images, bronze wares, ceramic ware, cottons, folk handicrafts, jewellery, Khmer silks, pewter ware, pottery, precious stones, silver ware, wooden carvings, and classic musical instruments. When bargaining, visitors should carefully think about it and thoroughly enjoy it. They will get memorable souvenirs.
Mekong River, Phnom Penh City The Mekong River crosses Cambodia from North to South about 600Km and has its source in Tibet, China. The Mekong River is lifeline for Cambodia due to the movement of fresh water fish to the Great Lake, Tonle Sap Lake. In Phnom Penh, it bursts into 4 branches: The Upper Mekong River or Tonle Thom, The Lower Mekong River or Tonle Touch, The Tonle Bassac and The Tonle Sap. This four way division is called "Chaktomuk" because the river seems to have 4 faces. In the wet season, water flows from the Nekong River into the Tonle Sap Lake. In the dry season, the water flows back from the Tonle Sap Lake into the Mekong River and then to the sea. At that time, Cambodia people celebrate the water festival in Phnom Penh.
Koh Dach, Phnom Penh City Koh Dach is located about 20Km northeast of Phnom Penh, has an area of 30Km2. One can reach it by national road number 6 and by boat along the Mekong River. it boasts aa traditional silk weaving village in which local craftsmen are skilled at spinning and weaving for their livelihood. It also boasts fishing villages on the bank of the river. One can enjoy their skill in weaving and the superb scenery of fishing threre.
Udong Temple, Phnom Penh City Udong (the Victorious) served as the capital of Cambodia under several sovereigns between 1618 and 1866. A number of kings, including King Norodom, were crowned here.
The main attractions these days are the two humps of Phnom Udong, which have several stupas on them. Both ends of the ridge have good views of the Cambodian countryside dotted with innumerable sugar palm trees. Udong is not a major attraction, but for those with the time it’s worth seeing. It’s generally very quiet, though picnickers tend to arrive from Phnom Penh on the weekends.
Tonle Bati, Phnom Penh City Tonle Bati is the collective name for a pair of old Angkorian-era temples and a popular lakeside picnic area. Anyone who has already experienced the mighty temples of Angkor can probably survive without a visit, but if Angkor is yet to come, these attractive temple are worth a detour. Ta Prohm is the laterite temple, was built by King Jayavarman VII on the site of an ancient 6th-century Khmer shrine. Today the ruined temple is surrounded by colorful flowers and plants, affording some great photo opportunities. The main sanctuary consists of five chambers, in each is a linga and all show signs of the destruction wrought by Khmer Rouge.
Entering the sanctuary from the east gate, 15km ahead on the right is a bas-relief depicting a woman and a man who is bowing to another larger woman. The smaller woman has just given birth and failed to show proper respect for the midwife (the larger woman). The new mother has been condemned to carry the afterbirth on her head in a box for the rest of her life. The husband is asking that his wife be forgiven.
Inside the north gate is a damaged statue of the Hindu god Preah Noreay. Women come here to pray for the birth of children. Yeay Peav named after King Prohm’s mother, is 150m north of Ta Prohm in the grounds of a modern pagoda.Legend has it that Peau gave birth to a son, Prohm. When Prohm discovered his father was King Preah Ket Mealea, he set off to live with the king. After few years, he turned to his mother but did not recognize her and, and taken by her beauty, as her to become his wife. He refused to believe Peau’s protests that she was his mother.
Phnom Tamao Wildlife Sanctuary, Phnom Penh City Cambodia’s foremost wild life sanctuary, Phnom Tamao is a home for animals confiscated from traffickers or saved from poachers traps. It occupies a vast site south of the capital and its animals are kept in varying conditions that are rapidly improving with the help from international wildlife NGOs such as Wildaid. Pread out as it is, it feels like a zoo crossed with a safari park, and gradually some of this space is being used to provide a better habitat for the larger animals. The way things are moving, Phnom Tamao is set to become one of the region’s best-run animal sanctuaries in coming years.
Popular enclosure include huge areas for the larger tiger population and the beautiful sun bears, and there elephants that some take part in activities such as painting. There is also a walk-through area with macaques and deer and huge menagerie, although the incredible birdlife sadly took a hammering during the 2004 bird flu outbreak.
If you don’t like zoos you probably won’t like this wildlife sanctuary, but remember that these animals have been rescued from traffickers and poachers and need a home, Visitors that here will be doing their own small bit help in the protection and survival of Cambodia’s varied and wonderful wildlife.
Phnom Chiso, Phnom Penh City A temple from the Angkorian era, Phnom Chiso is set upon a solitary hill in Ta Keo Province. Try to get to Phnom Chiso early in the morning or in the afternoon, as it is a very uncomfortable climb in the heat of the midday sun. The mail temple stands on the eastern side of the hilltop. Constructed of laterite and brick with carved lintels of sandstone, the complex is surrounded but the partially ruined walls of a 2.5m wide gallery with windows.
Inscriptions found there date from the 11th century, when this site was known as Suryagiri. The wooden doors to the sanctuary in the center of the complex, which open to the east, are decorated with carving of figures standing on pigs. Inside the sanctuary are statues of Buddha.
On the plain to the east of Phnom Chiso are the sanctuaries of Sen Thmol, just below Phnom Chiso, and Sen Ravang, farther east and fromer pond of Tonle Om. All three of these features form a straight line from Phnom Chiso in the direction of Angkor. During rituals held here 900 years ago, the king, his Brahmans and their entourage would climb a monumental 400 steps to Suryagiri from this direction.
There is a spectacular view of the temples and plains from the roofless gallery opposite the wooden doors to the central shrines. Near the main temple is a modern Buddhist vihara that is used by resident monks.
There are two paths up the 100m-high ridge, which takes about 15 minutes to climb. The northern part, which has a mild gradient, begins at a cement pavilion with windows shaped like the squared-off silhouette of a bell. The building is topped with a miniature replica of an Angkor-style tower. The steeper southern route, which begins 600m south of the northern path, consists of a long stairway. A good way to see the view in all directions is to go up the northern path and come down the southern stairway.
Kirirom National Park, Phnom Penh City The hill station of Kirirom, set amid lush forest and pine groves, has been established as a national park. It is popular with Khmers at weekends as it is 675m above sea level with a climate notably cooler than Phnom Penh. There are several small waterfalls in the park, which are popular picnic spots for Khmers, and quite a lot of basic walking trails. For a more substantial walk, consider hooking up with ranger fro a two hours hike up to Phnom Dat Chivit (End of the World Mountain) where an abrupt cliff-face offers an unbroken view of the Chour Phnom Damrei (Elephant Mountains) and Chuor Phnom Kravanh (Cardamom Mountains) to the west. It is often possible to see wildlife on this trail, including black bears scavenging the pine trees for honey. Kirirom is one of the few national parks to have a community tourism programme up and running.
The other sight seeing in Phnom Penh and nearby Phnom Penh City are worth a visit if you have plenty of time to discover the Kingdom of Cambodia, Kingdom of Wonder!. Those are such as Wat Langka, Apsara Foundation Association, Phsa Toul Tompoung...